As to the why, the answer is sediment. Sediment is small bits of dirt, rock and other debris that can work its way into your water heater over time. Being heavier than water, it will settle to the bottom of the tank and build up. It's not an earth-shattering problem, but in areas having water with a high mineral content, or water coming from a well or other supply that may not be well filtered, it certainly is possible to accumulate a fair amount of material in the bottom of the tank.
That sediment buildup can potentially decrease the amount of hot water the tank can hold, or it can clog up the drain valve. If your city periodically flushes the municipal water lines, or anything else causes a water surge or a sudden increase in water pressure, that layer of sediment can get itself all stirred up and work its way into faucets, valves and other areas where it's better off not being.
Hence the advice to periodically drain and flush your water heater to remove that buildup of sediment before it can do any harm. This is a very simple procedure, and how often you need to do it depends on your local water conditions -- annually or even semiannually in areas with poor water quality or if you're on a well, and every couple of years in areas with very clean water or homes with a filtration system.
FLUSHING YOUR WATER HEATER
First of all, shut the power. If you have an electric water heater, simply shut the circuit breaker. Don't overlook this step, because if the elements come on while they're not covered with water, it can do some serious damage. For a gas water heater, shut the valve controlling the gas supply to the heater.
Next, shut the cold water supply to the water heater. This is a valve that is located above or next to the heater. Go inside the house, open the hot water faucet that is closest to where the water heater is, and wait a moment until no more hot water comes out.
Near the bottom of the water heater is a drain valve. It may be white plastic, or it may be a brass valve that looks like an outdoor hose bib. Attach a garden hose to the valve, and route the other end to a safe location. Remember that this is very hot water that will be coming out of the hose, so keep it away from kids, pets and sensitive plants.
If your water heater is located in a basement and you have nowhere to route the hose -- to a sump or floor drain, for example -- then the draining process will need to be done with a bucket, and will obviously be a whole lot more tedious. To avoid burns, use a sturdy, good-quality bucket, and don't fill it more than half full.
Open the drain valve all the way, and let the water heater drain. This will typically be a relatively slow process. You may find it necessary to open the pressure relief valve on the tank to encourage things to get started, something akin to punching a second hole in the top of a can to get it to drain.
To get an idea of how much sediment is in the tank, you can run some of the hot water into a large glass jar (carefully). This is a good indicator of what was in the tank, and if you know how long it's been since the last time it was drained, it can give you a rough idea of how often you should be doing this.
When the tank is empty, shut the faucet in the house and turn on the cold-water supply valve. This will allow fresh cold water to run through the tank, stirring up and flushing out any remaining sediment. Unless you have a tremendous buildup of material in the tank, it shouldn't take more than about five or 10 minutes to completely flush it out.
When the water is clear, shut the drain valve and remove the hose. Leave the main cold-water supply valve open and refill the tank. When the tank is full -- and only when it's full -- you can turn on the electricity to reactivate the elements, or turn on the gas valve and relight the pilot. If you are unsure about how to safely relight the pilot, call your gas company for assistance.
Fannie Mae will start buying the new "jumbo light" loans of up to $729,750 from lenders on April 1. Loans originated after March 1 are eligible for delivery to Fannie, and the underwriting and pricing guidelines are posted will here.
See previous post on how to look up the new (temporary) loan limits for your area.
The government-sponsored mortgage repurchaser will start with 15- and 30-year fixed rate jumbo light mortgages, and then dive into 5/1 ARM loans on May 1.
So what will borrowers have to bring to the table? According to the product matrix, the smallest down payment on the fixed-rate loans will be 10 percent -- and you'll need a FICO score of 700 to put down anything less than 20 percent. Fannie is not interested in buying any jumbo lights made to borrowers with FICO scores of less than 660. Full documentation, FICO score, and a maximum debt-to-income ratio of 45 percent are required.
Not eligible: reverse mortgages, second liens, streamlined refinance or purchase loans, or cash-out refinances.
The requirements are even stricter for ARM loans -- nothing less than a 20 percent minimum down payment will do. And those down payment requirements are only for owner occupied homes. Buying a second home or investment property? You need a 40 percent down payment to qualify, and please, no more than four loans financed per customer!
The loan level price adjustments are 0.25 percent for fixed rate loans and 0.75 percent on ARM loans, and all the other price adjustments Fannie has in force apply -- plus those pesky adverse markets delivery charges in areas experiencing price declines.
1. Make sure that your moving quote is based upon a visual survey.One of the biggest mistakes that people make when booking a move is assuming that a phone quote is guaranteed. The only way to obtain a binding quote is to have your household goods visually surveyed by a moving company. Make sure that you get the quote in writing.
2. Read all documents before signing.Once you have been provided a written quote, make sure you read before signing. The quote should document weight, distance, and services to be rendered. If you have verbally discussed any special services make sure that those needs are reflected in the estimate.
3. Make sure you have adequate valuation coverage.Standard coverage for interstate moves, which all carriers are required to provide, is 60 cents per pound. This amount will be inadequate if an expensive item, such as a plasma television, is damaged in your move. Additional insurance can be purchased through the carrier or through your home insurance policy.
4. Use a reputable mover for your move.The number of choices available for your move is enormous. Make sure that you are using a reputable mover who is licensed, bonded, and insured. A reputable mover will not ask for a deposit up front and will have moving trucks with their own company name on them.
5. Make sure the mover can contact you.
If you are planning to have your phone disconnected the day of your move, make sure that the moving company has your cell phone number or another way to reach you. This is also applicable for your new residence.
For more information, call The Move Advocate at 800-617-1918. The Move Advocate can arrange for multiple, no obligation quotes, based upon visual surveys by carefully selected van line providers.
Houses are selling everyday in the Cincinnati area. The key is to be the best house in your price range offering the most amenities & being the most desirable compared to other listings in your price range. And the right price depends in large part on the current absorption rate in your market. Here’s how you find that:
Six months’ supply is considered a balanced market — when the number of listings roughly equals the number of buyers. Numbers over six represent a buyers’ market and those below a sellers’ market.To assess sales trends, you can also calculate supply over shorter six- and three-month periods. Price in real estate is mostly a matter of supply and demand, just like in every other industry.Once you have these basic calculations down pat, you can focus on absorption in particular neighborhoods or price ranges. If you don’t price it realistically then the house will not sell and all the marketing dollars in the world will not sell an overpriced listing.
Why Get An Inspection? | Title Information | Radon Information | Contact Us | Curb Appeal List | Setting the Sales Price | Lead in the Home | Insurance Closing Costs | Getting the Highest Price | Selling your own home | Find A Home! | School Profiles | Investment Strategies | Buying Tips | Search For Homes | Mortgage Tips | Home Inspection Tips | Selling Tips | Closing Costs | First Time Buyers | Get Pre-qualified | Home Buyer Checklist | Download Adobe Acrobat | Tell a Friend | Real Estate News | Real Estate Glossary | Home | Mortgage Saving Tips | Your Downpayment | Document Your Assets | Your Buying Power | Writing the Offer | Mortgage Shopping | Locking in Rates | Neighborhood Prices | Staging Your Home | Staging Checklist | Creative Financing | Mold in the Home | Site Map | ARM Calc | Fixed Rate Mtg Calc | 15 vs 30 Year Mtg Calc | ARM vs Fixed Rate Calc | Mortgage Qualifier Calc | Rent vs Buy Calc | Refi Breakeven Calc | Mortgage Calculators | Buying A Home | 9 Steps to Own | Selling A Home | Staging Your Home | Reasons Homes Don't Sell | Buying Foreclosures/REO's | The Listing Contract | Listing Commissions | Flowers Add Curb Appeal! | Remodeling That Pays | Selling One, Buying Another | Fixer Uppers | Home value calculator | Cincy Real Estate Blog
Copyright © 2008 Group RealtorsPortions Copyright © 2008 a la mode, inc.Another XSite by a la mode, inc. | Admin Login| Terms of Use| Site MapAll rate, payment, and area information are estimates and approximations only.
